19/10/24
It was a very wet morning. We had listened to the rain until sunrise and on account of the desire to get some miles in earlier we took advantage of an hour long supposed break in the drizzle. It wasn’t as bad as it sounded in the tent.
Carien came to say goodbye, she was so eager to know how to make it better for guests. We reassured her that it was beyond excellent and she had been so kind with nothing expected from us in return.
We set off into the miserable drizzly streets, apprehensive about riding in the rain but it soon it became apparent we had no need to be. It was very easy going really.
We cycled out of the town of Arnhem in good spirits despite the rain. We were soon in industrial estates, close to the river. As we sailed down one road heading directly into the river we realised it was a ferry crossing. An extremely frequent one it seemed, as cars immediately began queuing as the ferry had just left. The ferry seemed to be anchored in the river via a series of boats and took a predictable arc from one side to the other. We munched some pears and then rolled onto the wet but not slippery green metal deck. The pilot came over as we reviewed the tariff and said it was €2.50. On asking whether cash or card was preferred he replied “It does not matter, all that matters is you pay.” We remembered that Jonathan’s brother had told us that the Netherlands was extremely capitalist and said to each other that we considered getting across the river safely more important than paying!
The rain picked up as we cycled along miserable and familiar river banks. We didn’t use gloves as it wasn’t too cold and we were not keen on them being soaking wet. Just waterproof jackets and fluorescent shoe covers. After a particularly sad looking road through the middle of a reservoir the rain started easing and we met two men who told us the ferry was round the corner.
This was a mere bicycle ferry, a piece of rock sticking out into the water for a jetty. We could see the ferry arriving on the other side and went down to the end to wait for it. Two minutes later it became clear the ferry had returned to a resting position. The timetable had sad news, it would be two hours until the next one. Two hours! We resigned to our wait and put some waterproof trousers on. It had stopped raining but it was still cold. We pounded back plenty of peanut butter and jam on rye. Also a banana each.
The wait didn’t take too long and other cyclists turned up as we got closer to the time. We saw the ferry boarding on the other side and our spirits were higher. This was a fun little ferry that had to fight the current of the powerful Rhein. We secured our bikes with the ropes and mentally prepared for our ride on the other side. We’d managed to find a host in a town called Veen, the other side of Xanten.
As we left Millingen, knowing the border would be discreet, we watched carefully for the signs. At the end of the town was a small blue square EU sign marking our entry to Germany! The cycle path went onto a segregated path on the side of the road and we cruised into our second country.
The path fluctuated between being beside main roads and going up on the bank of the river. It was quiet and peaceful riding, through small villages. We saw what we think is the first railway bridge, a rusted structure that does nothing now. Our route was well signed with certified EV15 attachments to the signposts. It was very well indicated and really put to shame anything we have in the UK.
We chilled along long roads lined with trees. It was was going but the wind was irritating at times. All southerly’s, warm but strong. This led us to reevaluate our life choices, were the bikes the best way to see the world? Time would tell. In one of the villages we went through, a slow moving carriage approached us. It sounded like music. A relaxed smoking driver trundled past, revealing 20 people sat in the back drinking and partying to loud music. It was like a mobile Oktoberfest! We wouldn’t see these things travelling in trains between cities.
Later as we were making good progress the track suddenly swung right and down off the bank onto gravelly muddy track. Frankie has Marathon Tour Plus but Jonathan merely has Marathon Plus, the latter felt a little more slippy. The trail impeded our progress and we had to navigate around puddles and the like. The bikes got grittier and the gears were less happy.
It was exciting at first but got tedious as we were going round a lake that was well used for walkers for their leisure and wasn’t that friendly to touring bikes. As we approached Salisbury, sorry Xanten, we were back on the road. We rang our host, Siggi, who was super laid back about our arrival, and we found an Audi Sud. This is not the same as Aldi apparently. It was much harder to find the foods we got last time and we were rushing. Only Jonathan could go in, and there were no baked beans! There were signs however professing that Aldi Sud was friendly to vegans. There were lots of vegan signs to be fair. Kidney Brohnen, Kakis, bananas, tomatoes, rye bread and some Swedish oat cookies.
Veen was 5km away. Just 5 more. There was one larger incline but a sweet descent. Still on good segregated cycle paths despite not being on the route. Siggi greeted us at the door. He was immediately obvious as a gentle and kind cycle tourer. He looked back fondly on his adventures and showed us a large poster of his route with photos around it on the wall of his office.
The house was beautiful. Big tall ceilings and large open spaces. It was an old house renovated some time ago and felt rustic and calm with dusty pinkish walls and huge cornices. An old barn served as a bicycle shed behind the house.
We prepared a meal of spaghetti together, it was a vegetarian household which was nice for us. We felt bad that we had bought non organic ingredients as Siggi clearly felt strongly about it (we usually try to be “Bio” but are trying to save money).
His son came home soon after and could speak fluent English. He had been travelling by train and surprisingly told us they were rubbish here. Always delayed and cancelled. He uses a youth pass and has free travel so somewhat relies on it.
Siggi went out later, his son went upstairs. We sat in the kitchen eating Swedish hafer brucker and considering our next steps. Tomorrow was to be beautiful but Monday was going to be very wet. Should we take a rest day? Where can we stay? Could we make it to Düsseldorf? We messaged a couple of potential hosts and searched for accommodations. We retired to our bedroom where we were sleeping on a couch, it was weirdly very comfortable and we snuggled into it.
Surly They Won't Make It 