24/10/24
We awoke nice and early. Even before the alarm went off. It was an uneventful nights sleep in a secluded spot. We needed to be packed up before sunrise to avoid being nuisance campers. There is always this insane paranoia when you’re wild camping. Like everyone would tell on you or there would be patrols after dark. It’s probably unfounded though, right?
Regardless we efficiently packed our camping equipment away. It’s all so plasticky. Sometimes it feels like a little bit of an odd thing to be doing. Fortunately he tent was only slightly wet from the dew. It looks like we’ve got a good few dry days. We pushed our bikes out onto the path and we were rolling along.
It was a nice interesting path with some variance and obstacles. We visited Andernach with its pretty fort like structure and felt very hungry. We crammed in mounds of peanut butter and bananas. It was a cold day without the Sun and we’d stupidly worn running socks which seemed like a good idea but it’s not. Your feet don’t do anything, so they get cold. The panniers are a good wind buffer but it’s not quite enough.
We decided to visit decathlon and get some warm riding socks. It was only a few kilometres off our route and had a cycle way most of the way there. It was on a strip of road that seemed so reminiscent of America. There was no cycle way here and the street was lined with advertisements and hoardings. It wasn’t quite as horrible as an American stroad but it was trying.
We got some hiking socks that were the best value and put them on immediately. They were great. We headed back down to the Rhein, who at this point is nothing less than a good friend. We headed to Koblenz.
Koblenz was very scenic and a large monument dominates the view as you arrive. We wanted to have lunch by the statue anyway but the route took us that way. We had to cross a river though but not the Rhein. Koblenz marks the confluence with the Moselle. The statue of the emperor who united Germany guarding the point they join. It was a popular tourist destination and we enjoyed watching the visitors.
Leaving Koblenz was not nice and easy as it should have been. After a delightful journey past some majestic buildings and some obligatory, but in no way dissatisfying, time in the woods, we hit upon a blockage but without an obvious Umleitung. We were stuck between the river and a railway. We backtracked sufficiently to see a hidden yellow sign and started up the overpass to reach the road.
This was to be the worst part of the EV15 yet. While there was a cycle path on the road it was not much more than a narrow hard shoulder. It was used by cyclists travelling in both directions and there were some as always.
Not more than a kilometre later and there was a sign that said the cycle path ended. It was now officially a suicide lane, though not as bad as home because none of the drivers were crap. They all waited patiently to give adequate room to pass and travelled at an appropriate speed. No one tried to “just get past” in the nick of time.
We soon met a long line of cars backed up at a traffic light and cycled past everyone who’d passed us and more. We were soon to arrive in Rhens. This was another picturesque town, known for its buildings with colourful inscriptions. It was also home to the Königstuhl. The kings seat. Basically it was where some elites would discuss who would be king. It was a monument that had been moved from its previous location to the top of a hill outside the town.
It was a little bit of a struggle to locate it as google either sent us up a daftly steep path which turned to rocks or what seemed like a very long round. The long way round ended up being the way to go. We managed to climb all the way up on the road, on was at least 10% in several places. No mean feat while fully loaded. The views were outstanding and well worth it. You could see for miles in both directions of the mighty Rhein.
Our campsite for the night was to be Camping Sonneneck. It was of course a caravan park and we were always like ants in these places. However, it was comfortable flat ground with excellent hot showers. We even got the wood stove out to have some couscous and a hot meal for once.
The campsite had actually flooded in June of this year. And appeared to have been entirely renovated afterwards. Apparently the Rhein always floods in the winter here, but these summer floods were the first. No doubt it won’t be the last time. Not sure how long a campsite can operate with being flooded out during its high season.
Just before bed a couple of Dutch boys, who’d arrived with their father a little while after us, were suddenly asking for a plaster. They seemed to have been engaged in bushcraft and cut themselves. Random end to the day.
Surly They Won't Make It 