2/11/24
When we first went to sleep we panicked at the sound of scuttling around us. We realised there might be rats perhaps. We tapped loudly on the wall to make the noise stop and wondered if we should have set the tent up. We soon fell asleep though.
We listened to the sound of the water hitting the roof all night. Except it didn’t rain. When you’re in the clouds the water on the trees drips off constantly. So it was like it was raining. Once it gets to around 5am there’s a relief that lets you sleep more deeply. If someone was to turf you out now, it really wouldn’t matter.
We ensured we had taken everything with us and began wheeling our bikes out of the door. Frankie went down the first step and lost control of the bike, taking a little tumble. She knocked her ankle. It was the first time a bike had gone over. It was a bit demoralising. The weather and our exhaustion didn’t help. We regrouped.
We rolled down the gravelly track towards Behla. We were following the German cycle routes again, but towards Konstanz. We weren’t going to Schaffhausen anymore. It was Sunday tomorrow too. We soon found the slick tarmac cycle path and duly headed up hill. It was hopefully the last of the big climbs, for now anyway.
We were alongside a busy road and soon came across a cafe/bakery. It’s so nice that they’re so popular here and they aren’t all chains like Greggs or something. We wondered if we should postpone but decided we deserved the warmth and coffee.
As we rode over the nearby tracks the cafe was bustling. People were clearly intrigued by our arrival, turning to look through the huge glass windows. Obviously we draw a little more attention but people like the idea of adventure. We were pleasantly surprised by the knowledge of the lady behind the counter. She immediately pointed out the apple pastry as vegan. We ordered two, and two large coffees. They even had oat milk on a dumb waiter.
The pastries were delicious, the apple filling getting denser towards the middle. We wanted another one but resisted. We were trying to find accommodation for the night in Konstanz. We needed to find a camping shop this afternoon because we needed a sleeping bag liner. One of the ones we had brought was completely inadequate junk. And everything is shut on Sunday of course.
Presumably because of the holiday it was impossible to find a host on warmshowers. They were all busy or didn’t reply. The only thing we could find was a holiday inn and securing the bikes was always tenuous in such places. We shot off an email to try and clarify if we could store the bikes somewhere safely but also booked the hotel anyway as we could cancel up until 6pm. It was €98, very expensive but hopefully also comfortable.
We were taking a longer route but safer as it was on official cycle paths. It took us down gentle gravel tracks and through farmland and woods. It was foggy though, and it wasn’t lifting. But we were thankful not to have rain. It was going to be a fun day too. We had been up on the hills for 2 days and now we were going to descend. We started going up though. There was one last beast of climb before we dropped off. The anticipation made it seem endless. Was the elevation graph wrong?
It wasn’t. Eventually we crested the top by a farm that had a solar farm with a sign that indicated it was part of the “solar offensive”. We stopped at a bench to take in the view. Shouldn’t really stop as you get cold but then why climb. A conundrum. We popped in some nuts and a cliff bar. Then clipped up the panniers ready to go but, oh no!
Frankie noticed one of her panniers plastic hook bracket was hanging off. A bolt must have come loose, perhaps when the bike went over, and had gone. We weren’t descending just yet. Fortunately we had a suitable bolt in our bag of spares. Probably several hundred grams of bolts but very useful in times like this. It didn’t take long to reattach.
Down we went, stupidly fast and surrounded by buzzards. They’re so common here. We blazed into Tengen, we were going to stop but thought nah, forget it. We could get food later. It was a long way to Konstanz and we needed to get shifting.
The route had even more down, very steep hills that meant you could smell your brakes. But also we had a few little climbs. Jesus was around every corner here. On random posts in the middle of nowhere. We never realised they were quite so religious in Germany.
We really pushed through the miles. The path was easy in comparison to being in the forest. Our legs were sore but when it wasn’t hilly we were flying. We detoured to a Lidl in a town called Singen. There were several men outside on benches with an assortment of cans around them. The mood of the people felt like a reciprocation of the fog. We scoffed down a pretzel and a banana followed by 1.5 Apfelflockens (apple turnover) each.
The path had become flatter and flatter and we were soon beside the Rhein again. Our old friend was back in sight. Except it wasn’t really the river, but Lake Konstanz, which is filled by the Rhein. The little blue EV15 signs became commonplace again. We hurtled along the path, still being overtaken by e-bikes as well as racers.
We’d heard nothing from any of our potential hosts, so we were going to stay at the holiday inn. It was a little outside the city in one of those regenerated areas with their large generic blocks of development. This also meant it was brand new. There was no top soil on the mini “park” outside that separated the hotel from the car park. We scouted it out eagerly, pleased to find it had a metal bike cage.
We left our bikes near the entrance and went to investigate their ability to let us in the cage. When we tried to call earlier the receptionist had zero knowledge of where bikes could be kept. The current receptionist immediately presented an NFC tag on a lanyard. And though we were slightly early we could check in.
We loaded all the bags on the porters trolley and then locked up the bikes in their cage. At check in the price of the room went up €11 as the tourist tax was applied. Annoying. Not sure why that wouldn’t be on their website!
The doors through the hotel were heavy and hard to open. We wondered how anyone less muscular would find those. The corridor smelt of new carpet and paint. Luckily the room didn’t. But sadly there was no kettle. An immediate disappointment.
We rushed downstairs and grabbed the bikes, this time another receptionist demanding we hand over a keepsake in return for the key. Riding without luggage was a weird experience, the bikes felt wobbly and uncontrollable. But it was easier to go faster! We were soon crossing the cycle bridge into the altstadt (old city). Konstanz was a pretty place, we’d need to find time to explore tomorrow.
We found the outdoor shop eventually, they’d moved premises, and bought a new sleeping bag liner. They’re very important for adding a few degrees and also keeping the bag clean. We didn’t hang around and headed straight back. We also had to go to the supermarket, we trudged over but should have gone by bike. We spent €40, which was a lot for us but came away with some chocolate and nuts. Things we hadn’t needed to buy yet.
A hot shower and a comfy bed were luxuries we hadn’t had for 3 nights. You get used to slumming it but it was still very alluring to have room that’s yours. We ate dinner in bed, which was still our trademark assortment of bread, salad and tofu. Followed by bread, jam and peanut butter. Then our absolute favourite, lebkuchen. You can get them at home but the assortment is less varied. They’re a delicious German Christmas treat and warmed our bellies.
Surly They Won't Make It 