Surly They Won't Make It

10/11/24

We had an incredible sleep, though we could still hear the sound of the wind gusting from the comfort of our plush hotel. Breakfast was included, and after the day before, as well as the ostensibly easy day ahead, we weren’t in a hurry. 

We ate toast, jam, nuts and even gluten free chocolate cereal that was also vegan. Two cappuccino’s on top. We were buzzing to say the least. We left as late as allowed, almost noon. Before we left we wrapped up warm and stepped out. But it wasn’t cold at all. Warm air had been brought by that gusting wind. Our brakes were a bit spongy. A quick adjustment was needed for the almost 1500m of descent we’d be taking on.

We started to plummet down the road, in and out of the Sun, in and out of the warmth. In the shaded spots it was like opening a freezer door. Soon we dropped off the main road onto a much welcomed cycle route that traced it. Above Olivino we paused. It was a dramatic viewpoint. It was also an opportunity to use either cycle route 36 or the main road. 

At that moment Michael called. Michael was a Warmshowers host we’d contacted who lived in Bellinzona. He was enthusiastic to host us and even called us to confirm. It was a lovely gesture. We asked him which route to take. Equally beautiful, but the cycle route was in the darker side of the valley. Fuck cars, we thought, they make the descent even more hairier than it already was. Then we actually started going up hill. Our legs switching gears.

The descent to Biasca was glorious, small roads and multiple switchbacks. When we’d arrived at the hotel last night everyone was talking Italian. German be gone. Now we could see why. The architecture was markedly Italianate. We sailed down through pretty villages passing buildings with now shallow roofs and delicate ornateness. The hum of Italian voices when we passed a cafe. 

We were still in Switzerland though and the route was well signposted. This was EV5 now. It actually starts in the UK but more westerly, and travels through France. 

As we left Biasca we approached two snacking cyclists. One of them addressed us, where are you going, she asked. She was quick to tell us she was a Warmshowers host! A keen cyclist out with her not yet keen friend. And they spoke excellent English. 

Chiara and Francesca (yes another one, we were in Italy after all!) joined us, or we them, heading into Bellinzona. We discussed our adventures and picked their brains on the new Italian culture and language we were facing. Everyone greets you slightly differently, depending on age and locality, just like we would at home. It was nice to have company and we agreed to try and stay with Chiara, further south in Italy, the next night. 

As we arrived at Michael’s he sent us a message to let us know he was home. Perfect timing! We found his exquisitely presented flat and locked our bikes up in his personal basement storage. He was named after Michael Jackson, so our attempts to say his name in Italian were for nothing. 

Michael was a cargo train driver. He was kind and generous with his time and space. He was actually driving tonight to Basel through the Gotthard tunnel. He shared his food with us, and we shared what little expensive groceries we had (it was a Sunday and the well stocked petrol stations charge 4 Francs a kilo for carrots!) then headed off to his work. We ate some bread and jam before hitting the bed. We were still exhausted from the mountain pass.