9/12/24
The morning came soon enough, and we were sluggish to move. Frankie hadn’t slept all the night and stayed in bed an hour after the Sun rose. We made pancakes again, and wolfed them down with plenty of fruit. We tidied up and segregated the rubbish, as we’d noted the many bins at the entrance. When we took it out, the hosts appeared, and we were encouraged to dump it all in one bin. We had to persevere to at least separate the glass.
Our goal for the day was Fiuggi. We’d had time to find a cheap hotel, €35, the day before. The hosts suggested we were going to experience not only hills, which they gestured, but also ‘neve’, snow! Undeterred we set off back to the route in glorious sunshine, a relief after the previous days weather.
We already knew the route wasn’t flat and we headed up hill, for over three kilometres into Palestrina, almost immediately. After losing all the altitude we’d just gained, the route first took us on mostly small roads, interspersed with tracks. We suddenly turned off after Colle Comare and were thrown onto unrideable paths. Both underfoot conditions and the ascent were beyond a bicycle less than a mountain bike.
The weather had become cloudy and though we went back on a road briefly afterwards, the conditions swiftly deteriorated again. Then the previous days rain showed itself. The rocky tracks were built on rock, which had become very slippy. Huge puddles blocked our path, with no indication of depth. And to top it all off dogs were roaming around in ‘defence’ of the sheep.
After walking through thick mud and cautiously passed the hounds, we were confronted by a sequence of three, what can only be described as, ponds. Psyching ourselves up, we rode through and were left with wet feet. It could have been worse.
Fortunately, the Sun came out shortly afterwards, we reached a road, and there was even a rainbow. How fortunes can change. At Primo Ponte starts an excellent cycle path. Completely independent of the road. We embarked on the first hill, a five kilometre climb. It hugged the side of the mountain and gently ascended. Our suspicions were confirmed when we reached Piglio, passing a building that had an uncanny resemblance to an old train station.
From Piglio the path became beyond excellent. It snaked up the side of the mountains with a perfect gradient. The view of the land below was outstanding, and the Sun graced us with its presence once more. It was miles of unbridled glory. Just before Acuto we were given undeniable proof, the rusted pylons from the once magnificent railway remained. It was bittersweet, the tarmac had enveloped the train tracks. A once mighty railway, gone.
We were still climbing as we went through Acuto, but just past the town was the end of the line and the hill. We stopped to wrap up in our fleeces and wind jackets, before descending down the road towards Fiuggi. The old town sits on a hill, more than 100 metres above Fonte, the newer part of the town.
Fiuggi is famous for its healing water, which contains “humic substances” from its journey through the Ernici mountains. Cursorily, it does look to have some health benefits but we didn’t buy any, hopefully the same stuff comes out of the tap too!
We arrived at the hotel around half past 4. The receptionist was extremely kind and let us store the bikes in the bar, which he then locked and guarded for us! What a legend. The room had no radiator or towel rail and we had to improvise, the hairdryer was perfect for drying our shoes which were still wet from earlier.
Dinner was leftover pizza from the night before dipped in some chilli oil we ‘borrowed’ from downstairs, followed by bread and jam. Frankie even managed to melt some chocolate using the ever useful hairdryer on the bottom of a plate.
Surly They Won't Make It 