14/1/25
We woke up in the middle of the night. It was just before 2am. Loud rumbling thunder. Streaks of lightening across the sky. It was coming from the mountains to our north. It kept on coming, bright flashes and cracking thunder resonating through the mountains. Jonathan went out and put the guide wires down just in case. It wasn’t windy but it was the only precaution we could take.
It didn’t stop. We lay in the tent checking the forecasts. There is a live lightening map where you can see all the strikes occurring. The storm was to our north at the moment but moving in from the coast. The weather warning had been extended to cover tonight for just this small area we were now in. It had got us eventually.
It was impossible not to find the noise terrifying every time it arrived even after we’d seen the flash of light. We were vulnerable under our thin layer of plastic. We counted the seconds inbetween. It was getting closer. At one point it was a fraction of a second apart. Crack! All the lights around us went out. There’s always a silver lining. The rain started, first pattering, then heavy. It pounded down onto the tent. We’d stay dry we hoped. It carried on till about half past 4.
We survived. Thank god we hadn’t stayed where we’d planned. Everything happens for a reason, eh? It was 8am when we woke up. The whole place was well and truly soaked. Our new friends made us coffee which we were very grateful for. Packing up was annoying with the wet outer but we had a good system and bagged up the outer separately to keep the inner dry. We chatted a bit longer but then bid farewell. Malena and Dominic had been on some cool adventures both in their van and without.
It was windy. And the road was the shittiest surface you could imagine. Well not quite that bad but it was infuriatingly hard to make progress and it wasn’t even hilly. We bumped along, until we reached Priene. Another ancient city, but not as big, and too high up for us to do anything but see from below. We stopped in the village below to snack on bread and halva.
There were some school children floating around, a school trip or something we thought. We looked at where to stay that night. We wouldn’t mind something comfier and Selçuk was an appealing destination but we weren’t sure we could make it. We made some enquiries and headed back to the road to Soke. After a brief stint on the highway we cut through the suburbs. It was a messy place, a lot was going on. Outside a garage a ‘mechanic’ was wheel spinning a motorbike to literally burn rubber. The vehicles passed us closely. We were floating through, just soaking it in.
We stopped at a supermarket for water and a banana. We had to climb out of Soke. It was a mega climb. 8% for 2km. At the top was a little kicker with 12%. Beautiful. Then it went down slightly before there was another kilometre at 6%. Brutal. We stopped for sugary Çay at the top. 20 Lira. Great views to the sea. As we starting rolling we spotted a baker selling the most delicious looking bread for 60 Lira. We had to buy some, and stuffed some in immediately, saving the rest for dinner.
The descent was big. We held on for dear life as the road headed into the large resort of Kuşadası. We assumed this would be a nicer route as it was coastal. Perhaps we should have taken the inland route. The road was super busy and not wanting to add elevation we didn’t leave the highway. The best way to describe it is as like riding the A406, the London north circular, huge overpasses, no hard shoulder. We stopped at one point to rethink it but with only 2km left we soldiered on.
As soon as we left the city limits the road deteriorated and so did the amount of traffic. We were about 15km and 100m of elevation from Selçuk. It felt like an assured destination now. We knew Quinn had been staying nearby but didn’t know if he’d still be here sheltering from the rain. We called him. He was at the campsite, but down below the highway. But it’s Quinn, so he said he’d climb up.
We met him on the side of the road. He was wearing flip flops. It was good to see his head again. He looked in good spirits and we all regaled about our last few days. He hadn’t even seen the storm the night before. He’d been welcomed in by the family who ran the campsite and was enjoying the home cooking but would be leaving tomorrow. After a brief but exciting chat we said, probably our last, goodbyes and encouraged him to come visit us in the UK.
The road climbed a little higher before it was meant to be downhill. Except the wind was strong and the road surface rubbish. It felt flat at best. Certainly not 6% as it was advertised. The rain started too. We risked a shortcut between the highways which paid off and then pushed hard along the straight road to Selçuk. We could see Ephesus on our right side. As we passed it. A cycle path began. It was EuroVelo 8 again! It has a small section in Turkey too.
We were staying at an old renovated farmhouse but it was in the town. Fortunately close to the highway and not up any hills. We were getting a bit cold from the rain and were grateful to Ishmail and his warming of our room. It wasn’t very fancy but comfortable and straightforward. We popped to the shops for some fruits, vegetables and pastes to devour with our bread from earlier. Also halva and tahini.
We ate on the bed, watched a little escaping television and felt glad to be hidden inside a building again. The rain started again outside and we felt even happier for our choice. We didn’t have any worries for the moment.
Surly They Won't Make It 