16/1/25
We had a prompt breakfast. It was the same food everyday. Bread and jam mainly. One jam was sour black mulberry and the other quince. Exciting at least. We wanted to leave as early as possible, to avoid the crowds but also so we could be home early.
We used the excellent footpath and cycleway, that ran next to the road to reach the excavated part of the ancient city. It was a sprawling place in its heyday but they’d only revealed about 15% at most. The only problem with the footpath was that it didn’t really mesh at the beginning or end. It just started and ended randomly. Still it suited us well and was about 3km of walking, including one on the narrow road.
Along the way we met many dogs. This was the way in Turkey. Apparently they appreciate having so many dogs (and cats) around, to protect them and their livestock. Maybe they’re just used to them being around too. One of the dogs was more inclined to follow us than not. We may have encouraged him. We decided to name him Quinn. Not because Quinn was entirely dog like per se, but we thought he did have some features of his personality. Quinn had bailed at the extortionate cost of Ephesus and this way we figured his spirit animal could visit.
We walked past the Jandarma outpost and then followed what was presumably the pedestrian path but was just a dirt track. There is a bit of a ‘shopping centre’ outside the city. Selling all sorts of tourist crap. Everything completely overpriced. On the way in Quinn was harassed by lots of the dogs already living there. These large dogs ran over barking. Questioning him. He bared his teeth vigorously and seemed to pass the test. Onward we went.
It was painful to pay €80 so we could go in. But Turkish inflation has been insane. 50% year on year for a couple of years. It’s no longer the cheap tourist destination people think it is. The fact all the attractions are priced in euros says it all. We don’t blame them for taking the money to be fair. It’s expensive to look after a well visited site let alone fund the excavation of the rest of it. Oh and don’t forget getting rid of all the bloody cement.
Even when we paused to read the signs, which told the extensive history of the city and its many civilisations over time, Quinn waited for us. There are two gates to enter Ephesus, the one at the bottom where we arrived, and the one at the top where all the tourists normally arrive. This is so they can walk down, not up, and also serves to make the place mostly one way. A cynic might say it’s like a gravity funnel of money.
As we walked up we admired the incredible relics that have been pieced together. It was pretty amazing that anything was left, given that the city had been pillaged so many times for the stone. After a bit of faffing trying to find an audio guide that started at the bottom, we gave up and went to the top. There were more and more coach loads of Chinese tourists, but also schoolchildren, arriving.
We used Rick Steves audio guide. It was free on soundcloud. And it seemed right because Phil and Gloria, the other guests from the hotel whom we had breakfast with the last two mornings, apparently lived just 5 miles from him. He is American and we found his flair slightly annoying but it was thorough and helped us understand what we were looking at better. It truly was hard to imagine that so much was yet to be uncovered.
As all ancient city’s should be, Ephesus was a port city. How else to do trade? It was in fact the start of the Silk Road. A gateway to the east. Most likely the largest Roman city bar Rome. But it’s not on the sea anymore. Enter the Meander river again. It had managed to dump so much silt that the water was now 3km away from the harbour. Until now there is no way we would have believed that such huge changes to the coast could occur, naturally, in such a small time frame.
We’d lost Quinn at the Library of Celsus. He had decided to flop in the Sun with a friend instead. On our way back down we saw him again, but we didn’t disturb him. He seemed to be happy. Before we left, we went to the ‘Ephesus Experience’ museum. It was included in the ticket price, so why not. We had missed out on going in the terraced houses. An additional ticket was required. We’d also decided not to visit the ‘House of the Virgin Mary’. It probably wasn’t her house and felt like a scam. But it probably depends on your religious ideas.
We entered the timed ‘museum’ with a Slovenian man, who spoke good English. It was a big hall, wall to wall projections of images. It felt exciting. It explained, sort of, the history of the city and its different stages. There were two rooms on the way. It was very immersive. We enjoyed it a lot, though the last room, with the statue of Artemis that had been recovered from the site, was a bit airy fairy and talked a lot about the god still being ‘present’. We think they probably should use the opportunity to explain why she has a dozen boobs, or maybe they’re bulls balls, who knows.
We were disappointed that the massive theatre was closed off. It’s undergoing renovations (removing cement of course) but it looked epic. The acoustics are meant to be awesome. Likewise, the road to the harbour was shut. It seems a little unreasonable to charge full price when something as fundamental as the theatre is shut. We contented ourselves with viewing some sarcophagi and then seeing the outer fringes of the current site where they were clearing trees and scrub.
As we headed back down through the ‘tourist flogging channel’ a salesman called out to us, trying to get us to buy ice cream. We politely declined and headed back along a different road, then used a track to get back to the main road and the path. We went to get some more of the same delicious ekmek we’d got the day before as well as some more fruit and vegetables.
On the way back we bumped into a camel. Our first one of the trip, probably the last. Especially given that they’re only there because of some daft ‘festival’ where they make them fight. Morons. Or maybe it’s cultural. Who knows.
We were gladly back at home nice and early, at 3pm. We had an early dinner, ate some more expensive baklava and enjoyed the distraction of TV. It was hard not to be apprehensive about the fact we were cycling again tomorrow. It was odd that every time we stopped somewhere it was easy to adapt to the life of not moving, of not worrying about where we’d sleep or where we’d source food, and now water. Maybe it’s not odd. Moving every day requires a high degree of physical and mental flexibility.
Surly They Won't Make It 