23/1/25
It was stupidly peaceful night for us. The last two nights had been more stressful, but under the trees here it was serene and quiet. No wind, no rain and certainly no thunder and lightning. We had ambitions to make some good progress today but we were both still suffering from a hacking cough. It couldn’t be helping us.
We packed everything away fairly slowly and went back to our friend the D550. In the sunshine it seemed a little more friendly but the hard shoulder was hard to get along with now. It had also gained some kind of additional rumble strip that meant we either cycled in a narrow gap between that and the white line, or in the crappy stone covered gutter. We varied between the two, depending how busy it was. The traffic came in bursts due to the traffic lights.
We stopped for coffee and tea in Yenişakran. Finally plucking up the courage to visit the place where it’s predominantly the men that seemed to hang out. There was actually a woman with two children there which put Frankie at ease. Straight back on the main road afterwards, but we turned off as soon as possible onto what turned out to be glorious secondary roads.
It was all olive groves and sunshine. We stopped to scoff some ekmek rings and chocolate spread. It was so peaceful here. After crossing a completely empty and silent motorway that ended nowhere we slipped over a hill to Dikili. It was a bustling town, we sat on the beach and ate mandarins.
Afterwards we headed north on the coast, staying off the main road as much as possible. The minor road was paved with blocks. We had no idea how they laid it but it seemed time consuming. It allowed the road to move though it was still a bit jumbled in places. It was like they’d built on the flood plain. Hundreds and hundreds of second homes. There were a few people around but the shops were often boarded up for winter and it would obviously be heaving in summer.
Eventually we had to track back to the D550. It hadn’t changed. We got bored of it after a bit and went through Altinova to get some peace for a bit. Then it was back. Until we left it again at Sarımsaklı. The coastal road from here was mighty busy but it was a beautiful evening. We were feeling a bit tired now.
The road, and us, eventually arrived in Ayavalik. We hadn’t booked the hotel. We wanted to see it first and check the bikes would have somewhere to stay. We happened upon a busy market, and walked our bikes through the narrow streets of the old town. It was a calming end to the day. Up a narrow steep hill we found the hotel Hayriye Hanım Ege.
No one was there, just a telephone number on the door, so we just booked it online. As if by magic someone immediately came out. An old woman came from the house opposite to try and check us in but she couldn’t do it. Eventually a young man with a little bit of English arrived. The bikes could go in the courtyard round the back.
We went off through the market and bought some dates as well as some little sweets, chickpeas coated in sugar with rose water. They’re similar to an Iranian treat called ‘Norg’ which is the same but with rice instead. We couldn’t find great ekmek so settled for somewhat good. It’s too late to find bread at 6pm.
We nestled in the hotel to rest. We’d had 7 days on the bike now. Part of us thought we should stay another night, it was only £19, and a comfortable place. But we couldn’t help feel like January was moving fast. We ate our smoked aubergine paste with fresh tomatoes, pepper and cucumber. Sprinkled with roasted chickpeas. Afterwards we ate from a huge jar of fig jam. It was probably for pie filling, but went well on bread. All the while we indulged in the latest episode of Traitors. Weird how travelling in the modern world is intertwined with technology. We wouldn’t have a hope in hell of navigating the streets without our phones. Or would we?
Surly They Won't Make It 