2/3/25
We’d deliberated really hard on which direction to head. We were just north of Phang Nga bay. Ko Tapu is famously known as James Bond island. The landscape featured in the Man With the Golden Gun. We pondered whether we should take another boat trip, go and see it. Or if we should head north faster.
We headed north. F*** James Bond island. Frankie had had a rubbish night and barely had any sleep. We didn’t realise the effect changing time zone, temperature and diet could have on your hormones. It’s truly fascinating, and annoying. We still got up at 5:30am. We had no choice. Today was going to be hot as hell.
Because we’d chosen to head north we had to backtrack down the same monotonous road that had given us so much angst the previous afternoon. At least the whole place was bathed in an incredible golden light. We started to notice that everyone had chickens. One of them ran across the road with a rope attached to their leg having escaped their shackles. We also finally spotted the black bird that had been making the siren type sound everywhere.
The local people were all out and about. It was easy to forget what time it was but it was still really early. Some men went past in a pickup truck, they’d pull over occasionally and we’d keep passing each other waving and smiling. We kept seeing fires burning. It seemed insane to burn anything in this weather and the mote we saw the more nervous we were about the coming burning season.
There was a thick blanket of clouds above the jungle on the mountains ahead. Hopefully it would be cold when we got there but we probably wouldn’t get there in time. The Sun would burn through in no time at all. Our bums were super sore again. It was taking time to adapt to the saddle again after three weeks off. We have hard brooks saddles. Not leather, and they are very resilient but our flesh takes the bumps.
Frankie was finding it to be a very hard day to find the energy to cycle. She hadn’t slept well at all. And was obviously drained. We stopped for some coconut milk pancake things. They weren’t the same as the day before. A green jelly made of pandan, the extract from a leafy plant, with a creamy coconut topping. They were delicious. A great breakfast. Roadside food stalls is one of the best things about cycling in Thailand we have decided.
We went through jungle and palm tree plantations for a bit. Then we carried out the long awaited climb. It wasn’t long, not really. It was seriously steep in places, and the switchbacks had deep corners that we had to try and avoid, traffic dependent. It was pleasantly not as long or as difficult as we’d feared. The descent was glorious, a slow gradual descent so we could pick up speed. At the bottom we stopped in a bus stop to eat a dragonfruit. They’re easy to peel and despite the fact a lot of people think they lack sweetness or flavour, we’re big fans.
It was starting to get really hot. There were perfect blue skies all around us. We were riding down a boring single carriageway, lots of houses and things to draw our attention on each side but we were really exposed. Zero flora close to the side of the road.
By 10:30 it was definitely unenjoyable. There were occasionally patches of shade when we went past slightly higher ground. It was tempting to stop, take a break and regroup. But every second that we stopped would be more time roasting under the Sun.
After what felt like an eternity we arrived in Talat Yai. We were worried we hadn’t got to the right town because locally it seemed to be known as ‘Takua Pa old town’. The main street was signposted as the ‘walking street’. Though it didn’t seem to be car free. We weren’t walking either. Baan Kong hostel was right on this street. It was only 11am but it was about time to check in for us.
A friendly woman led us in, bikes too. It was a massive place. There was a kitchen, a games room. She went upstairs to make up our room. We were so grateful. We felt troublesome for being so early to our lodgings. But she understood. We had a nice room with our own bathroom. Only £13 for the night. We double checked and we could even use their kitchen. Amazing. We also asked a younger woman, who spoke some English, to book our room for the next night, the motel didn’t have a website. By some coincidence she said it was her boyfriend’s place and called him up. Sorted.
We happily went out to find some food. There weren’t any restaurants we fancied our chances of a vegan meal at, so we went to find the market. Opposite the supermarket was a market but only one stall. We picked through the piles of food, and found a green papaya, purple sweet potato, baby aubergines, limes, chilli and garlic. 20 baht, 50p. Mad. Just outside the supermarket a woman was selling tomatoes. Another 20 baht for four. In the supermarket Frankie spotted the last, hidden packet, of tofu.
It was Sunday, and they were setting up the weekly market on the now completely car free street. We’d picked a good day it looked like. Still, we were going to make some papaya salad and a curry. We had some rice we’d been carrying around already and stuck it in the rice cooker. Jonathan julienned the papaya and make the ‘salad’ and Frankie cooked up the curry. We aren’t tooting our own horn. But it was all mighty delicious.
While we were cooking a young man, who was also running the hostel, came over and asked about our booking for the next night. He was the boyfriend. Turned out that the woman had misunderstood. The man ended up calling the right place, and confirmed our booking. Phew.
After a little chill upstairs, literally, we were sweating and stuck the air conditioning on, we went outside. The street was now bustling with life. There were stalls up and down selling all sorts of food and craft items. We went for a wander. We couldn’t eat most of it but we did find a cornstarch pudding, sweet potato balls and traditional Thai pancakes with red beans inside. There were performances by local children too. Also dozens of German tourists.
After an hour or so we retired to our room with our snacks. We carried on watching Toxic Town. Made some mango sticky rice. We felt like we were getting into the swing of things with our cycling. Thailand was turning out to be the best place yet. Or maybe the place we are is the best place. It was 9pm. We set our alarm for the morning and went to sleep.
Surly They Won't Make It 