18/4/25
We didn’t sleep very well. We always kind of hoped that the day before a rest day we’d fall into a deep slumber but it never happened. During the night we went to the toilet more times than an elderly person does. The curtains were translucent so we were up not long after the Sun.
We had brilliant views of the river. We once again appreciated not being in a box. After a couple of coffees and some dragonfruit and jackfruit we hired some crappy bikes. Not wanting to leave ours around the island.
Li Phi Somphamit are just one of several cascades that form the Khone falls. The widest waterfall in the world, at nearly 7 miles across. They were several kilometres away on a good road and required a 30000 Kip entrance fee, or $1.5, to view. The ‘4000’ islands divide the river. Only a few are inhabited. The islands that split the river at the falls were tiny. They pushed the water into small gorges forming numerous waterfalls.
We walked along the bank taking in all the various viewpoints. It’s possible to walk along suspension bridges over the falls. But it’s expensive, the view is perfectly good without and they’re really ugly. They’ve also set up ziplines. Currently inoperable. The connecting points are even uglier to look at. There was a little ‘beach’ too. It started to smatter with rain as we headed back.
The Khone waterfalls prevent the Mekong being navigable all the way to China. There used to be endangered Irrawaddy dolphins near the islands. The new Don Sahong Dam – that we’d seen on our arrival- had been predicted to, and did wipe them out. Too disruptive for them.
We cycled from Don Khon, over the old French bridge, onto Don Det. Then up the eastern side. There were many farms and locals. It was nice seeing the older generations still partaking in their traditional activities. Often doing something with their knife or sitting in groups talking. Many of the children we saw were just glued to phones.
We passed the Old French Port. There wasn’t anything there but the large concrete skeleton of a loading device. We continued round the northern tip of the island. There were just little restaurants and bars. A very laid back vibe indeed. A month ago it would have been heaving with people so we were told. The shop next to the pier sold water for 10k kip rather than the 15k we’d been paying.
The road was now not a road. We were glad not to be trashing our own bikes. An Indian restaurant called Hathim was claimed to be vegan friendly. As we got there the sky started to flash and thunder rumbled. We ordered two curries, a naan and some rice. They were nice, but not great. Too thin. No vegetables. The aubergine one only had blackened skin in it. The laid back seating was nice though.
We followed the sandy path north. Passing restaurants selling ‘happy’ food. It’s got mushrooms and/or marijuana in it. Drugs are illegal in Laos but it doesn’t matter here. We found ourselves back at the bridge and then in our hotel soon enough. We relaxed in the cool for a couple of hours.
In the evening we went to find some dinner. The first two places we went to were shut. The third made us a papaya salad and some fried curried vegetables with rice. It was dark when we cycled back. Only Frankie’s bike had a dynamo driven light. We ate some mango, dragonfruit, bananas and peanuts. Watched some Black Mirror and Shield. Tomorrow we were off again. We wouldn’t be lingering on this island.
Surly They Won't Make It 