23/4/25
It was easy to get up. We’d done ourselves wonders by going to bed at 8pm. An hour earlier than usual. We waved goodbye to our moody hosts. It’s uncomfortable leaving a room with air conditioning and a big bed while they sleep outside.
The air was warm and thick as we rolled into the town. We pulled over at a market. Laos had what Cambodia didn’t. It was fast becoming our favourite country. Less finessed but with the same food. After crossing the river, we stopped at the top of the next hill to eat our coconut milk pancakes with deep fried dough balls. How we’d missed the creamy oozing delights.
We were set for a slow and gentle climb today. We’d be going up and down, but always back up further than we went down. Halfway up the next incline we stopped for coffee. We made the mistake of asking for sugar. It was like she was conducting an experiment into the solubility of sugar.
No one could mistake the 13 for being scenic. A mere necessity conduit at best. Our days were all becoming the same. A slog up the same road with the same scenery. Hard to tell apart. Only the food varied slightly. In the town of Paksong we stopped to up our bottles with ice and glug a soya milk.
We soon climbed to our maximum elevation for the day. Over 200m above sea level. The first time in a long time. We stopped for more ice. The heat was becoming unbearable again. Frankie then suddenly found herself knowing for sure she was a woman. Drained and exhausted. Struggling to exert herself. Thankfully most of the hills and miles were done.
It didn’t stop the last 10km being a pain. The road deteriorated. The wind blew in our faces. Trucks blasted past kicking up dust. We felt like the Sun was laughing at us. Intensifying exponentially. We passed some fruit stalls, but we didn’t stop. It was a joyous moment when the town appeared.
Hongthong guesthouse was in the centre of Ban Phosay. Luckily a little way off the main road. We rode in triumphantly. We couldn’t see a proprietor in the immediate vicinity. A group of bemused men sat on a table nearby. A woman wearing a traditional conical hat, known as a koup in Laos soon appeared. A room with air conditioning was 200k. The usual price. We gladly snuck inside to cool off.
After a bit we visited the local market. It served a a hub for long distance buses to stop at. We were a little nervous we’d be subject to higher prices. We were pleasantly surprised. It seems to help if we take our time to look around first. Then purchase some vegetables. Once we reach the fruit they can see we aren’t typical tourists. We also make sure to ask the price before we buy. We’re still convinced we could haggle. But it would only be a few dollars and we’d honestly prefer to give it to them.
Our dinner consisted of a bounty of vegetables. Carrot, green beans, Thai basil, Chinese leaf. A soy sauce mix of chilli, onion and garlic. Peanuts and sticky rice. Mangos and bananas with peanuts and coconut milk for afters. The evening went quickly. We finalised our plans for the next day. Crazy, but we’d be leaving our good friend the 13.
Surly They Won't Make It 