Surly They Won't Make It

19/7/25

Wanting to visit the Scenic Spot early we opted for an early breakfast. Just after 7am. It was a small buffet. Entirely vegan apart from the omnipresent boiled eggs. Huge bags mounted on our backs we hiked to the visitor centre. Via a coffee shop. Oatly coffee obtained we took the expensive bus up the mountain side. It was very expensive and incredibly confusing. The hotel we’d booked wasn’t in the scenic area. So we changed it. 

The more expensive hotel was near the top of the scenic spot. We dumped our big bags. It was going to be far more convenient and restful not to go up and down in the same day. Disheartening though the rainy weather was, when compared to the alternative of 40° heat in Chengdu, it was pure bliss. The high altitude path suspended us in the trees on a metal gangway and we marvelled at the soaking wet rainforest. At the top we bought tickets for the cable car.

Hanging in the air in our glass and metal box, we first crossed a wide and deep valley. Boulders and striated rock below us. Ascension soon brought views of the fabled ice fall. It was immediately apparent how diminished the glacier was. The tongue had almost entirely vanished. Bedrock lay bare between the 1060m height of the ice fall and the tongue. As well as part way up the icefall. While we stood watching there were huge rumbles as ice collapsed in front of our eyes. Not abnormal. Certainly more impactful given the state of the ice. We were struck with both awe and extreme sadness. 

The glacier was retreating at an average rate of 66m a year, according to data in 2021. Assuming it rose exponentially, one could only cringe at the rate of disappearance. Perhaps it would be gone in 10 years. At most, probably. The coniferous wood below was proudly called virgin woodland. It had formed in a mere 135 years. The wake of the glacier provided the new growth with a perfect habitat. A good deal of the higher paths were closed. Likely a result of the earthquake. 

After our mystical exploration in the cloud covered mountains we headed down again. Once again crossing the vast expanse of the raw valley. Waterfalls hurtling down around us. It was a short walk back to our hotel. Interrupted only by stump tailed macaque monkeys. Despite being IUCN vulnerable listed, they poked around in the bins and appeared playful. 

One of the main features of the area was the hot springs. We took the sightseeing bus down to the fanciest place. The entrance was odd and it looked rundown. Rubble covered the path. A crane rose up in the distance. As we got closer completed buildings came into view. Steam emanated from the rocks high above us. A young woman came across a rope bridge to greet us. For some reason she seemed surprised we were willing to pay the steep entrance fee (¥199 each). Perhaps it was our shabby attire. Tiered pools had been constructed below the sulphurous 60C+ stream of water pouring out of the ground. 

The water was a glorious temperature. We half wished it would snow. Only half. Our trekking route would have been impassable in winter. There were 18 pools. Even a steam room. Tea was provided. All heat generated by geothermal energy. It made it all the more enjoyable knowing the heat wasn’t created by fossil fuels. Spending hours there wasn’t a problem. Sufficiently prune-like, we were picked up by the hotel van. 

Dead was an understatement when it came to describing the restaurant. We ate alone in the vast room. A buffet station suggested that perhaps there were times when it was busy. Usual fare included mapo tofu, fried aubergine and rice. 

Remaining in the scenic spot after hours was a treat. Strolling up the road surrounded by tall trees, we listened to the calls of the animals. Once it was dark we returned to our room and managed to secure a purchase of The Wolf of Wall Street. Old but amusing. Importantly for us, in English.